Fill out our adoption application here and we will either let you know when we have a litter on the way or have a match for you. Please note that there may be a wait list, as we are not a high-volume breeding operation.

No, we are a local-only operation. You must be able to pick the rats up local to Burlington, VT or meet within a 30 mile drive.

Since we are a very small-scale operation, babies often go quickly! We recommend applying early if you see a litter coming you will want to adopt from, as we will contact people on a first-come, first-serve basis. If more applicants want to adopt than there are babies, we will keep you on a waitlist for the next litter. We will send each set of babies home with a small supply of food, just to get them through a few days. Please expect to receive your rats in a small box for transport only, but we expect that you have a full cage setup for them to live in by the time of adoption. They cannot live in the box they came in - it is far too small and scary, and they likely will try to chew through it and escape after too long. We will gladly work with you to recommend a diet, setup options, and other supplies you will need if you are not accustomed to having rats. (We love first-time owners!) We don't believe in restricting what you can do with your own animals, as when they pass from our hands to yours you are their new owners, but we do strongly caution new owners not to breed their pets without extensive rat husbandry knowledge and an awareness of breeding practices, possible negative outcomes, etc. We have really done our homework to get to the point where we are even considering breeding our animals! Most rat owners, especially those who don't have much experience with animals beyond their pets, are just not ready for the kind of work and commitment it takes to breed. There are lots of rats struggling to find homes already, so it is important that adopters understand the risks and impact of careless breeding. Yes, baby rats are adorable, but things can and will go wrong and that responsibility is on you. However, we do provide a health guarantee on our animals and will provide a refund within the first week of ownership if the animal becomes very ill (beyond a light cold) or passes away for any reason. This is our hobby, not our life, so we don't mind being honest and forthcoming about the health of our animals and making sure adopters have the best experience possible, even if tragedy strikes. You must adopt at least two babies at a time, and we will only adopt out single-sex pairs.

We charge a $10 adoption fee per rat. We do not differentiate between types or colors.

It's truly up to you. We recommend females for folks who want active, playful pets who are a bit smaller and sleeker. Males tend to be the snuggly, much lower-key animals so they are typically better for folks who want a less active pet. They are much larger (MUCH larger, in some cases) and can be quite lazy, usually tending to be more human-oriented than females. Males are, however, a little more likely to show hormonal aggression and tend to urinate to mark territory, so smell can be more of a problem than it is with females, but if you manage it properly it won't be an issue (it shouldn't be, if it's managed properly!). Females, on the flip side, can be a little more destructive and easily bored, and therefore more apt to rip and tear through their cage accessories for fun. Downsides and upsides to both, really. Both sexes can show these behaviors and these are very much generalizations, so we recommend you work with us to determine the best pets for you.

Firstly, be active in researching what is best for your rats. We LOVE and recommend the Facebook group Realistic Pet Rat Owners for folks looking for actual, factually-based information other than the advice given elsewhere online that may or may not be vetted. Rats are fossorial creatures, meaning that they live on the ground, as opposed to aboreal species (like squirrels) that live in trees. This means that floor space is way more important than climbing space for rats. Your cage should have a minimum of 1 square foot of floor space for the first rat and 0.5 square feet for every other rat. Cages should have bars that are a minimum of 1/2" apart. (Any further apart and the babies can squeeze through and escape - if they can fit their head through, the rest will follow.) Many folks recommend 2 cubic ft. per rat, but scientific studies prove that less is okay. We love and recommend Critter Nation cages (one unit can easily house up to 10 females and 8 males, a double stack can be divided in half or opened for more space), but this is a pricey option and not necessarily budget friendly, especially for first-time rat owners. If you need a budget-friendly option, consider a cage like this Prevue 528 Universal Small Animal cage (much larger than it looks in the photo) or making a DIY bin cage out of a plastic storage tote, some hardware cloth, and metal zip ties. Metal is a bit better than plastic, as rats can and will chew through it if they aren't entertained enough, but many rats don't chew through their cage unless they're deeply deprived of enrichment so unless you know your rats are chewers, it typically is not a problem. Keep in mind that rats who are housed with either too much or not enough space can develop issues relating to cage aggression - if you have a very large cage like a Critter Nation or Feisty Ferret, consider having a colony of 5-6 rats rather than just 2-3. If your cage is too small, upgrade it as soon as possible. Hamster cages are way too small for rats! Rats are incredibly intelligent and need to be kept busy. Deck the cage out for them - they love to climb and will nest in baskets, hammocks, and anything you can make them a bed in! Wooden chews are also a must, since rats' teeth never stop growing and they need to be able to whittle them down. We recommend checking out the internet for creative rat housing enrichment ideas, especially on a budget. They LOVE trash, and dollar-store decorations or empty cardboard boxes with the plastic ripped off are always favorites. You will need at least one decently-sized water bottle and a way to serve food - the more creative, the better! A dish is perfectly good, but egg cartons and boxes they can chew through are even more engaging for their brains. Giving your rats a comfortable place to live is of utmost importance. For bedding, we ONLY recommend kiln-dried pine or aspen shavings. It is by FAR the best, and as far as we're concerned, only, option. It is a myth that pine shavings are bad for rats - only pine that is not kiln-dried is bad for rats, and 99% of pine shavings made for animal use is kiln-dried. Paper of any kind - CareFresh or Kaytee Clean and Cozy bedding included - is not absorptive at all and the ammonia can really hurt rats' lungs, so we advise staying away from it. Fleece and other kinds of fabric also do not absorb ammonia and will need to be changed at least every 48 hours, and rats will also chew them up and you will need to replace them constantly. Instead, we roecommend just using loose wood shavings in a cage that supports it, or if you have a Critter Nation or similar cage like we do with shallow pans, buying large cement mixing tubs, carefully trimming a bit of the edge off with a utility knife, and sliding them into the cage to hold loose bedding. You can also buy these metal Bass Equipment scatter guards and bedding pans, but they are pricey and aren't always deep enough for rats who really love to scatter bedding everywhere. You will also need to purchase the more expensive stainless steel versions, or else paint the galvanized ones with Rustoleum to prevent rust. Rats have highly sensitive respiratory systems and the wrong bedding can cause a lifetime of health problems. Lots of information on bedding is available online - you can also litter-train your rats to keep the smell down.

While many pet stores sell a mix of seeds and pellets that looks enticing, rats will pick out the "junk food" and leave the healthy stuff, just like kids! A balanced lab block diet is best. We feed Science Selective, but also highly recommend Mazuri or Oxbow Essentials adult (NOT Oxbow Essentials young rat/mouse or Garden Select - they contain alfalfa which rats cannot digest properly and has caused death in some rats). Rats LOVE fruits and veggies! You can cut up some carrots, strawberries, ripe banana, or broccoli and toss it to them to nibble on alongside their regular diet as a treat. They can also have a little bit of meat once in a while, cooked typically, or cooked or raw bones of any kind - they love them so much you will need to ake sure everyone gets their own, because they will fight over them! Just be careful not to give them spicy chicken wing bones unless they aren't very spicy (like mild or BBQ), as spicy food can hurt their tiny tummies, since rats cannot vomit and if they get a little acid reflux, it won't be fun for them. Ours love to nibble on the leftover carcasses from rotisserie chickens, a bit at a time. Some things you should be careful to NEVER feed your rats: green/underripe bananas, alcohol, caffeine, avocado, carbonated beverages, blue cheese, any citrus fruits, mango, green potato, peanuts, licorice, excessively fatty/sugary/sticky foods (like peanut butter), and dried corn (pick it out of your seed mixes if you purchase pre-mixed seeds). You should only feed your rat these things cooked: potato and sweet potato, artichoke, Brussels sprouts, corn, beans, eggs

Rats secrete a substance called porphyrin from their mucous membranes, which is a reddish substance that many first-time rat owners mistake for blood. A little bit of porphyrin is normal! Excessive amounts of porphyrin can signal that your rat is experiencing respiratory distress. If it is actively seeping out of the eyes and nose alongside other symptoms like labored breathing, excess sneezing or squeaking, or listlessness/depression, take your rat to see a good exotics vet.

There isn't much of a show scene (or even a breeding scene) at all in Vermont where we live, so no! We do, however, try as hard as we can to adhere to AFRMA standards for color and markings, but ultimately we breed and socialize our rats as pets.

We will never, under any circumstances, adopt out rats as feeder animals. Ever.

Our rattery is our home, so unfortunately no. Sorry! We do our best to provide lots of pictures, videos, and information about each baby to potential adopters in lieu of meeting in person to help them make the right decision for them. It does also put a colony at risk of disease, so in addition to being a privacy thing, we do also want to keep our colony as healthy as possible.

Rats typically live between 2-3 years with good care. Of course, medical concerns and other unfortunate circumstances can pop up occasionally, but we breed specifically for health and longevity so we hope for the vast majority of our offspring to live long, happy, and healthy lives. The more generations we produce and selectively breed from for these traits, the higher quality they will be.

Unless there is a *very* specific situation you have spoken with us about, no. They are going from the only environment they've ever known, the only other rats they've ever known, and could possibly be rejected from their new family at first, so it is best for them to have at least a sibling to rely on and find some comfort with during the transition.

There are a few different ways to do this, but we have tried and stand by the carrier method. It sounds harsh at first to keep so many rats in such a small space, but it is a much smoother, more humane, and more efficient method for all animals involved and they are much less likely to hurt one another in the majority of circumstances. It is by far the most humane option we've tried, and we've done introductions a lot. We will give a disclaimer that males, especially those older than 6 months, can be a bit more difficult to introduce. We've had an instance of an older male rat becoming extremely territorial after an introduction gone wrong, so it is very important to take your time and do it right the first time. Be patient, kind, and careful. Rule of thumb: no blood, no foul. If someone starts bleeding, separate them, nurse the wounds, and start again (slowly) after everyone has a chance to cool down.